How to read a list of cosmetic ingredients and spot the undesirables

Have you ever walked past a shelf full of cosmetics and wondered what's really behind all those ingredients with unpronounceable names? Are the claims "herbal" or "natural" really genuine, and what is the actual percentage of these ingredients in the products? And above all, how can you avoid controversial ingredients that may be harmful to our health or our environment? In the following article, we dig into the complex world of INCI nomenclature, the system that standardizes the declaration of cosmetic ingredients. We also explore how to identify and avoid problematic ingredients, even in supposedly "natural" or "organic" products.

If you'd like to make more informed decisions about your cosmetics, keep reading.

Cosmetic ingredients are listed using the INCI nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), which is mandatory in Europe and aims to standardize the way cosmetics manufacturers declare the list of ingredients making up their formulas.

Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, with the exception of those present at less than 1% of the total formula, which may be listed out of order. The list of ingredients must comply with regulations, and must appear on the packaging as well as on the sales page of the website if the product is sold online. If you come across a product with a missing ingredient list, beware!

Unfortunately, ingredient names are not always easy to decode, as they are often referred to by their Latin names (especially for plants, oils and their extracts) or by their English names (preservatives, fragrances, etc.). The important thing to remember here is that if you have a product in your hands with the claim "with argan oil" or "with aloe vera" for example, and you find these ingredients at the very end of the list, there's a good chance that the quantity of the ingredient in the total percentage is very low, and that the expected results will turn out to be disappointing.

What about problematic ingredients? They can be very hard to spot, especially in formulas with very long ingredient lists. You'd think that a product labelled organic or natural wouldn't contain them, but remember that even these formulas can contain up to 5% of unnatural products, and there you can find undesirables: often in industrial brands, rarely in specialist brands. 

How do you spot them?

Parabens: Parabens are often used in cosmetics as cheap preservatives, and have been linked to allergic reactions, hormone disruption and even an increased risk of breast cancer. Parabens can easily be replaced by other, milder preservatives which are more expensive but harmless to human health. So it's important to know how to recognize and avoid them. They're pretty easy to spot, since the word paraben systematically appears at the end of the name. E.g. Butylparaben, Propylparaben.

Sulfates: Sulfates are ingredients commonly used in hygiene products for their ability to produce foam and clean, but they can also be very irritating to the skin. It is therefore advisable to avoid sulfates whenever possible. Like parabens, sulfates are easy to spot as they are often listed under names containing sulfate. E.g. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES).

Phthalates: recognized as endocrine disruptors and suspected of disrupting the male reproductive system and thyroid function It is therefore important to avoid them as far as possible in cosmetic products. The most common phthalates used in cosmetics can be listed under names such as Diethylphthalate (DEP) or Dibutylphthalate (DBP). As a general rule, an ingredient followed by an acronym in brackets should be avoided. 

Mineral oils and petroleum jelly: The major problem with these ingredients is that they are petroleum derivatives. We won't go into why petroleum derivatives should be avoided in this article. Apart from this aspect, the raw materials will tend to clog the skin's pores, causing reactions and rashes and potentially aggravating acne problems. These oils are not biodegradable. You can spot them by looking for the words: paraffin, vaseline, mineral oil, any ingredient with the word Petrolatum is very often any ingredient with the word Wax, with the exception of beewax which is beeswax and perfectly healthy for the skin. 

If you have trouble understanding the ingredient list, use applications such as INCI or Yuka to help you identify problematic ingredients. Most of the products available on the market (large and small brands) are listed in these applications, and all you have to do is scan the barcode. If the product is not available, you can search by brand name, product or specific ingredient. 

Unfortunately, the above list is not exhaustive. It does, however, list the ingredients to be avoided at all costs, as they are clearly harmful to your skin and/or to nature. Others exist, and we have plenty of articles in our blob to help you navigate the field. Don't hesitate to consult them and contact us if you need more information on a particular ingredient!